The Thrill of Climbing Tengu-dake - Learning from Mt. Ishizuchi’s Ascent “Fear Not!”

Despite the rainy season already having started in Shikoku by June 19, 2024, the weather forecast for that day alone was for clear skies. Surprisingly, the forecast had been cloudy with occasional rain until just a few days prior, but suddenly changed to clear skies the day before our departure due to a high-pressure system. Originally, I had planned to climb Mount Ishizuchi, the highest peak in western Japan, with the new graduates from Sound House on the 19th. However, as the weather forecast had not improved, we canceled the climbing plan about a week prior, but then, the plan to climb Mount Ishizuchi was back in schedule at the last minute.

Having climbed Mount Ishizuchi over a dozen times, I would prefer to climb a different one of Japan’s 100 famous mountains. However, earlier this year, a group of new female graduates climbed Ishizuchi in April and reached the summit shrine, only to hesitate and abandon the final 100 meters or so to Tengu-dake. This unexpected turn of events made me feel that I had to go with them to encourage the team. Moreover, this year, our business partners wanted to join the climb as guests, making it impossible to refuse. So, I decided to climb Mount Ishizuchi again and attempt to conquer Tengu-dake.

Even though the climbing plan had been previously canceled, I hesitated to invite the new female graduates again due to the sudden rescheduling. I heard that some staff members were already discouraged by the climb two months ago, and to challenge it again would require ample mental preparation and time. I heard that the reason for abandoning the last 100 meters to Tengu-dake was because the fear built up after climbing numerous long chains to reach the summit shrine, making them too scared to go further. I don’t know if everyone felt that way, but it seems the experience of the tough chains instilled fear in them.

However, the path from the summit shrine to Tengu-dake involves only a couple of short chain sections at the beginning, after which it is just walking on rocky terrain. Compared to climbing up the 70-meter chains on the ledge desperately, it should be much easier. It’s just that the path is flanked by a near-vertical cliff on the left and a 45-degree slope on the right, which can instill fear in those unaccustomed to climbing. Still, if you follow the person ahead and steadily place your feet, you can definitely reach Tengu-dake, so it’s a pity the new female graduates missed this opportunity. Despite enduring the mountain path and climbing the chains to the summit shrine, they lost heart upon seeing Tengu-dake right in front of it. I hope that soon they will conquer Tengu-dake and gain confidence in climbing.

With this background, this climb involved only myself and a 60-year-old male staff member from Onagawa, along with four external participants. Since I had a lot of work piled up, I initially thought of staying at the base, Joju Shrine, to work while waiting for everyone. However, our guests insisted I accompany them, so I had no choice. This time, I decided to climb with them out of obligation. They were all eagerly aiming for Tengu-dake, saying, “We’ll do our best!” Fortunately, the weather was good, and the chains should be easy to climb, so I assumed there would be no problems, but was that too optimistic!?

On the day of the climb, we gathered in the hotel lobby in front of Tokushima Station at 5:45 a.m., received breakfast bento boxes from the hotel, and immediately set off. We aimed to reach the Mount Ishizuchi Ropeway station in about two and a half hours. The roads were clear, and we arrived with plenty of time for the first ropeway at 8:40 a.m. From there, we headed to Joju Shrine, where the five of them began the climb, and I decided to run to catch up with them later after working for an hour at the ropeway station waiting room. Of course, I always carry my laptop in my backpack. After an hour of work, I started running to catch up with them nonstop.

On my way to the summit, I first spotted the 60-year-old member climbing slowly on his own, which was fine since he wasn’t supposed to climb. Midway up the mountain, I found one of the two female members climbing with another climber. This climber, I heard, was a legend attempting his 91st ascent of Mount Ishizuchi. Assured by his help, I felt okay with her situation where she was aiming for chains and the summit. Now, only three remained to be caught up with, so I continued to the summit.

For this climb, I decided to avoid the chains and take all the detour routes for the first time. I had never climbed the detour before, so I thought it was a good idea to speed up the process. I also saw the groups ahead moving slowly at the chains, I decided to run along the detours for a faster pace. I reached the summit shrine in about an hour and a half from the start. The breathtaking view from the summit was truly refreshing.

At the summit shrine, only two of the three guests were there: Mr. O and Ms. K. Mr. C was still climbing. I thought it was okay, and I suggested to Mr. O and Ms. K that we should go to the summit together, but both said that they were scared and they couldn’t go. These were unexpected words from those who had been so eager to climb Tengu-dake. What a shame. I even thought i shouldn’t have come either, but i encouraged them, saying, “What are you saying!? Just follow me!” Mr. O agreed and Ms. K wanted to wait for other members. Well, this can’t be helped.

Indeed, there’s a sense of reassurance when following an experienced climber. Climbing Tengu-dake with Mr. O went smoothly from that point onward. We navigated the rocky ridge, firmly securing our hands and feet on the steep slopes, and I guided him on how to climb the rocks. As long as he climbed the same way I did, there was no problem. Nevertheless, Tengu-dake is no easy feat. The left side is a sheer cliff, and looking down could cause your legs to tremble and your body to tense up with fear. Knowing that I am not strong with heights, I always make sure never to look down. The important thing is to face forward and proceed with a calm mind. If you don’t look around, it’s just a path along the slope, however, humans tend to get unsettled when they see a deep valley. That’s why I kept encouraging Mr. O behind me, saying, “Walk straight!” “Look ahead!” and “Climb up here!” In about 15 minutes, we reached engu-dake. Mr. O seemed to feel an immense sense of achievement, and his face was filled with deep emotion.

After a brief celebration, we returned to the summit shrine. Descending the mountain can be more dangerous, so I reminded Mr. O to stay cautious and we started to descend slowly. At the summit shrine, another male member was there with Ms. K. Out of the four guests, only one had climbed Tengu-dake so far, leaving three more to go. Since I had already climbed Tengu-dake, I was prepared to simply cheer them on with a “Good luck!” However, Mr. C, who had just joined us and had been the most enthusiastic, suddenly showed signs of fear, saying, “I’m too scared to go!” This affected Ms. K, who had been waiting for him, and she also said, “I’m scared too, so I won’t go!” What a chain reaction of fear! Despite being so eager to climb Tengu-dake, they all suddenly felt frightened when faced with the summit and its rocky terrain. They stopped in their tracks, overwhelmed by fear, even though it was only a little over 100 meters to the top.

They really are a disappointing bunch. Here I was, coming along because they asked me to, and now they’re backing out! But there was no time to complain. “I’ll go up again, so just follow me!” I encouraged them. They replied, “If Rick is going, then we’ll follow.” It felt like dealing with children! In the end, I ended up climbing Tengu-dake twice. It must have been fate. Of course, the two of them followed me slowly, and another female guest, Ms. S, joined us at some point. With the three of them together, they gained confidence and were able to follow me without any issues.

At Tengu-dake, everyone took pictures and were quite excited. As far as in the pictures, it looks like they are not afraid of anything. They were enjoying the wilderness in a crazy way, unlike their initial fear of it. This is the true joy of mountain climbing.